Dining critic on Helm: ‘One of the best pastas I’ve had in 2015’

My wife looked on in horror as she stared across the table at my transformation into a figure that, in retrospect, must have resembled a ravenous Mr. Burns, or perhaps a breeching dolphin. I’d just taken my first bite of the midcourse at Helm—a homemade ravioli filled with sweet,...

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